12/23 I am sick. Fortunately there is the clear indication of my body temperature saying that I am sick, because otherwise I would not know what is wrong with me – am I lazy, have I been underslept for months, is all ability to notice anything forever gone from me, maybe because I’m too old and have seen too much of everything already?

We have traveled a quarter around the globe just to be able to look at the sea, and the horizon, and the clouds, this time the mediterranean off the western end of Crete. Given how much coastline there is on the earth, it is remarkably difficult to do this, despite how simple it sounds.

It’s much more remote than we thought it would be – single-track, extremely winded roads with 180-degree switchbacks. Yet we haven’t been out in the daylight almost at all yet. Miraculous hospitality in the tavern ten kilometers from here, to which Google led us, which had a Closed sign that they decided to flip around when we showed up as the only guests.