January 21, Berlin. For thirty-six hours, we ate practically nothing but currywurst. Got acquainted with German payment methods: the American credit card either doesn’t work, or it’s cash-only anyway. I go to Edeka, where I have to buy something for five euros to get two hundred euros change. J goes to a piercing studio in Wilmersdorf – the best she’s ever had. Our flight has been canceled. We are looking forward to a few more days in Berlin, but KLM rebooks us, without our intervention, on another flight that arrives almost at the same time. Shopping at KaDeWe. J is in a lot of pain; whiskey from the hotel bar. Pour as much as the glass holds.